Jiufen, Taiwan: Day And Night Charm

Imagine wandering around a maze of lanes and alleyways that looked something taken out from a movie scene. How will you feel about the experience?

I felt spirited away exploring the nostalgic mountain village in the east of Taipei called Jiufen on my 3rd and 4th day in Taiwan. A decommissioned gold mining town perched on the side of a hill overlooking picturesque hills and ocean. Jiufen has earned a name for its rich history and culture in addition to its majestic scenery.

It was a dream come true....to be standing in the midst of it, to take every step to the top, to peek at its busy corners, to watch it transform from a congested tourist spot to a nostalgic, romantic spot. Indeed, a trip to Taipei isn't complete without paying a visit to this small town.

While most tourists go on a day tour, we have planned ahead to stay overnight to truly experience Jiufen. It was pleasurable to witness as a blanket of darkness caressed the delicate old town. Seeing the charm of Jiufen in daytime and nighttime is a timeless gift that I would love to experience again.

Things to do and see in Jiufen

The town is well-known for two main things: Old Street and tea houses. The Old Street actually consists of narrow alleyways packed with shops of all kinds, from street-food shacks, souvenir shops, tea shops to cafes and heritage buildings.

Most attractions are situated along the cobblestone steps, so be prepared to climb up and down when exploring the place.

Souvenir & Food Shop Strolling

What's the first thing I noticed? I was catching my breath from climbing the steps when my eyes spotted something.... Studio Ghibli souvenirs of all kinds! 😍 My heart skipped of excitement but I contained myself since I have hoarded quite a few Studio Ghibli items at ATT 4 Fun shop. 😭

With many small alleys that snake around the area and even run beneath the buildings, these souvenir shops are literally everywhere. So tempting!

I was so engrossed with walking around that I didn't feel hungry. Nothing to worry though, the town is filled with retro Japanese and Chinese-style cafes; some of which have stunning views of the ocean. There are also shops offering quick bites to fill the tummy while roaming the alleys.

One antique shop had a dog in the entrance way, doing nothing except trying to be cute. 🥰 Many tourists have stopped by and checked the shop. Good boi!.... hmmm having a pet might be a good marketing strategy. 🤣

Some food shops had long queues, like a blockbuster movie, which could mean good food. Sadly no time to try these shops since we've had limited time.

Temple

Following the cobblestone steps towards the top, there standing the Shengming Temple which was built around 1880s. It is the center of faith for people in the Jiufen region.

There were a few people who went inside but I decided not to go in since I wasn't wearing a proper clothing.

Calligraphy Class

One of the shops that caught my interest was sort-of an art shop. It's actually the first shop I saw in this area. The paintings and sketches of Spirited Away characters made me stop and checked it.

The second time I saw it, we decided to take a quick calligraphy lesson. I suck at anything related to decorative handwritting and painting, and I can't write Chinese characters 😭 but I really wanted to try it.... and so we did. 🤣 Motivation level = 100%!  😝

Yup I did it! It was such an experience! First time doing a calligraphy and it was in Chinese. 😝 A pat on my shoulder....the struggle was real but I did a good job according to the instructor. /evil laugh insert/

Thanks to the instructor for the patience in teaching me and telling me I did it right even though I think the characters were off.

Dining

After "doing well" in the calligraphy class, I deserved a good dinner. 😆 We searched for a place to eat among the many options. The restaurant we planned to dine in was fully booked since it's a popular one. So we had no choice but to look for another and we ended up in a nice one too.

We had a nice view of the Old Street while enjoying our dinner. The lanterns hanging illuminated the alleys, creating a peaceful and harmonious atmosphere.

The restaurant had a unique table made of recycled vintage sewing machine. So while my mouth was busy eating, my leg was busy pedaling under the table as well. 😆

Tea House

As tea lovers, we wouldn't miss the chance to try the tea at A-Mei Tea House. Lucky us, it wasn't jam-packed. We were ushered to the second floor where we had a gorgeous view of the town.... erm it was dark but the tiny lights flickering from a far looked like fireflies.

The tea house appears splendid in daytime, and as the night falls, it becomes even more spectacular with its well-preserved historic Japanese style architecture. No wonder why it remained crammed even at night... we couldn't even get a decent photo. 😭

I know Hayao Miyazaki denied the rumour that the bath house in Spirited Away took inspiration from this tea house. It may not be but still, I wanted to believe with such gorgeous structure.

Tea time! After a few minutes, our chosen tea variant was delivered with the set. The staff demonstrated how to make the tea and it was truly interesting. Indeed very fascinating, especially the flipping of the tea cup part. 😆

Savouring the goodness of the tea while just relaxing after a day of wandering was a moment I wanted to freeze. The experience was wonderful that I wanted to stop the time, I didn't want it to end.

The tea house opens 'til 11pm but we had to go back to the hostel. Left the place with a heavy heart. 😢

More Tea Houses

Boasting an unmatched old town atmosphere, Jiufen is home to multiple tea houses with notable architectural structures and views. Aside from the A-Mei Tea House, the Skyline Tea House is yet another popular option among visitors. We were supposed to have our dinner here. 😢

Another interesting tea shop possessing a unique entrance, bearing a resemblance to a mining tunnel. At first glance, you wouldn't know where it leads you. 😏

Old Street

Numerous buildings in the village remained unchanged and well-preserved; they reflect the Japanese influence not just on the architectural structure but on the culture as well.

During the day, it took me several visits back and forth to the main Old Street to capture it with less tourists. At night, people seemed to be much fascinated at the lighted lanterns that it was nearly impossible to get a crowd-less shot.

Near the central Old Street is where the Shengping Theater lays. It was established during the Japanese occupation period and was just restored. Once a wooden stage that hosted many operas and shows, it was rebuilt into a theater after collapsing due to old age.

Close by the theater, the Gold Mine Museum showcases Jiufen's history as a mining hub in the gold rush era.

Jiufen Accommodations

Several accommodations are available in Jiufen. From homestay to inns, there are unlimited options. Just pick which one suits your itinerary and budget.

Waking up to a view of the green hillside to the rolling hills that meet the sea was priceless. It poured the day before so it was a bit hazy in the morning. Good morning Jiufen! 🥰

Made a quick visit to the Old Street for the last time before leaving for Taipei.

Overall, we enjoyed everything that Jiufen has to offer, especially the stunning mountain and ocean views while sipping our cuppa tea. 😉 See you again soon!

Have you been to Jiufen? What's your favourite part?

Special thanks to someone for making this dream come true!


8 - 9 July 2019